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Miniature Goats – Housing and Routine Care
By: Judy Veale, Stonewall Farms
 

Fencing and Environment

Secure fencing is absolutely essential to the safety of miniature goats. It protects them from natural predators such as coyotes and from dogs (whether strays, your neighbors’ dogs, or your own), which are a serious threat. Even dogs that are not capable of or inclined to actually injure or kill goats may harass and distress them. Miniature goats have small hearts relative to the size of their bodies and have been known to die from stress alone. If you own dogs, you should not allow them near your goats, except under your supervision. Goats are instinctively afraid of dogs (as well they might be) and will usually run away from them. Most dogs, on the other hand, will instinctively chase a fleeing animal. If your own dogs do not behave aggressively towards your goats and are often near them, then the goats will eventually become habituated to them.

Secure fencing is also important in preventing goats from foraging on poisonous trees and plants. Yews, laurels, the leaves of wild cherry trees (especially wilted leaves in the fall), red maple leaves, plants in the rhododendron family, and azaleas are all toxic to goats to varying degrees. Even a few mouthfuls of yew leaves can be rapidly fatal, whereas other types of plants can cause mild to serious illness. The area in which goats are to be confined should be inspected and any suspect plants or shrubs removed. It is safest to remove ornamental shrubs or flowers of any kind. Goat will chew the bark off of trees. If not protected by fencing, trees to which goats have access will eventually die.
 

NOTE—This type of fencing has cross-pieces that are about 2 inches apart in the lower part of the fence. The space between the cross-pieces increases from 2 to 4 to 6 inches, the higher the cross-pieces are from the ground. This sturdy fencing is excellent for mature goats, but will allow miniature goat kids to escape. If used to confine kids, the lower portion of the fence should be lined with livestock wire; alternatively, the entire fence can be lined with snow fencing.

Depending on the number of goats and the gauge of the wire, plain wire fencing with metal posts, even if electrified, may not be adequate to keep goats confined or to protect them from predators.

Gates should be designed so that the latches are inaccessible to the goats, as goats are very clever and can figure out how to open most types of latches.

Housing and Bedding

Miniature goats are quite hardy. In the winter, they grow long coats enabling them to withstand extreme cold. (Even kids tolerate the cold quite well, once they have been born safely and dried off.) They mainly require protection from wind, rain, and snow. Two to four miniature goats will do nicely in an 8-foot by 8-foot shed or stall, provided that it is well ventilated and allows adequate light. Ideally, goats should be able to go freely in and out of their shelter to their fenced yard or paddock. Except in very bad weather, they will spend most of their time outdoors, which will be healthful for them and which will spare their owners a lot of time and effort cleaning their shelters. If this sort of arrangement is not possible, goats should be turned outside for as many daylight hours as possible (except, of course, when the weather is bad).

During the cold months or when does are due to kid, clean straw free of dust or mold should be used for bedding. One small bale of straw is more than adequate for an 8-foot by 8-foot shelter. Every few days, or as needed, fresh straw or waste hay should be added so that the goats always have dry bedding. Eventually, the bedding will be so deep or soiled that the shelter must be cleaned down to the ground and the bedding cycle started over again. Depending on the number of animals, how much time the goats spend outdoors and how large their shelter is, the shelter will require cleaning as frequently as once a week or as infrequently as once every couple of months. One of the advantages of this system is that during the winter, the manure in the lower layers of the bedding generates heat, making the shelter cozier. Your nose is the best guide to when the bedding must be removed and refreshed. The shelter should be sweet-smelling and airy. Except for uncastrated males, miniature goats do not have an odor, and thy are naturally clean little animals. If your goats’ shelter smells bad, it’s your fault, not the goats’!

Some goat owners use wood shavings as bedding, removing manure and wet shavings daily. This approach is fine, but your goats will appreciate it if you provide them with intact bales of straw, wooden benches, or other objects on which they can rest off the ground. This is especially important in the wintertime.

Artificial heat is not necessary for miniature goats and, in fact, can be harmful. The contrast between interior warmth and outside cold, increased levels of ammonia fumes (from urine), and the inadequate ventilation that may ensue from attempts to make the shelter too snug all predispose goats towards respiratory infections. Healthy goats don’t require artificial heat; sick goats shouldn’t be in the barn.

Food and Water

Water

The single most important contributor to a miniature goat’s good health is constant access to fresh water. Goats will not drink stale or fouled water. Outside water buckets should be placed in the shade in the summertime and the water changed at least twice a day, morning and evening. In the wintertime, lukewarm water should be given and changed at least twice per day (preferably three days a day if the cold is extreme). A mixed mineral block should be placed near drinking stations. It is best to use hard plastic buckets for water, because they are more easily cleaned. A particular problem with rubber water buckets is that during the warm months, algae will grow on the inner surfaces; this "slime" is very difficult to remove completely, even with vigorous scrubbing.

Hay

Goats are ruminants and should have constant access to fresh roughage to keep their digestive systems active. The best hay to feed goats is a fine-textured alfalfa/orchard-grass mix, if available. High-quality, fine-textured timothy or orchard grass hay is also acceptable. Goats love alfalfa, but it is very rich and straight alfalfa should be introduced only gradually to the hay ration. Whatever the type of hay, it should be clean, free of mold, and very green and leafy. Contrary to popular opinion, goats are fussy about what they eat. If given a poor-quality hay, they will waste most of it (they won’t eat old, wet, or soiled hay either) and may even become ill; the ensuing cost outlay will end up being greater than for more expensive but better-quality hay. It is especially important to avoid feeding moldy hay, as goats are extremely susceptible to mold; several serious illnesses of goats are associated with mold.

About two flakes of hay, one given in the morning and the other in the evening, is usually adequate for two to four miniature goats. It’s best, though, to simply observe your goats until you’ve hit on the amount needed to keep him/her happy and healthy without excess wastage. If you often find the hay manger empty, you’re not feeding enough.

Hay should be fed in mangers. Unlike sheep, goats are browsers, not grazers, and do not particularly like to eat off the ground. Also, feeding hay off the ground is important in parasite control.

Grain

Provided that good-quality, free-choice hay is available, one to two cups of grain per day is adequate for a mature miniature goat, unless she is nursing kids or being milked. If possible, goats should be fed their grain in separate feed dishes to prevent more aggressive individuals from consuming the rations of others. Sliced carrots are a nice treat to give with the grain ration. Offering sliced carrots, pieces of apples, raisins, or pieces of bread is a good way to "gentle" shy goats and make them more people-oriented.

The grain ration should be one specially formulated for goats or a commercial livestock ration. Goatkeepers in New England have access to Blue Seal feeds. A good grain ration for young does, pregnant does, and nursing does is Blue Seal Caprine Challenger or Blue Seal Coarse 16. We feed Blue Seal Lamb Finisher Pellets to our male goats; this feed contains ammonium chloride to prevent urinary stones (see "Miniature Goats: Signs of Health and Illness"). If a doe is nursing one or more male kids, we feed her Lamb Finisher Pellets so that her boys will immediately become accustomed to the pellets. A good feed supplement for female goats that are in poor condition and/or have a poor appetite is Blue Seal Sunshine Pellets. This extremely high-protein feed is very nutritious and digestible, contains various vitamins and minerals, and contains yeast for stimulation of appetite. Adding a half a cup or so of Sunshine pellets to the doe’s regular grain ration will often produce noticeable benefits (weight gain, improved coat quality) within a couple of weeks. (Do not feed Sunshine pellets to male goats. Note also that horse grain should not be fed to goats, because it contains additives that may be harmful to goats.)

Feed dishes should be plastic or ceramic (not rubber), for easy cleaning. Elevating feed dishes off the ground will help prevent fouling by manure and thus aid in parasite control.

Grain should be stored in a cool, dry place to prevent spoilage, a particular hazard in the summertime. It is very important to store grain securely so that the goats cannot get into it. Goats can become seriously ill or even die if they eat too much at once—which they will, if given the opportunity. A heavy-duty garbage can with locking lid, kept in a place inaccessible to the goats, is a good storage method.

Wethers (castrated males) should be fed only small quantities of grain, preferably a type containing ammonium chloride. Feeding wethers too much grain can literally kill them.

Parasite Control

Worms

Worms are internal parasites present in all goats. There is no way to eliminate them completely, as goats constantly reinfect themselves. Minimizing the worm "load," though, is very important to a goat’s health. Mature miniature goats should be dewormed about once every 8 weeks, certainly not less than quarterly. Kids are very vulnerable to worms and other parasites, and we generally deworm youngsters once a month until they are 8 or 9 months of age. The clinical signs of an excessive worm infestation are: a rough, lack-luster coat; a "pot belly" in an otherwise thin animal; persistent soft stool or diarrhea; poor growth rate. All of these signs may not be present at once – another reason why routine deworming is a must. A goat who exhibits one or more of these signs should be wormed immediately, even if not "due." Keep in mind that fecal samples are not always positive even if a goat is heavily infested with worms. A goat who looks wormy probably is wormy, regardless of the results of fecal testing.

The one exception that we make to the above schedule is pregnant does. While most wormers are considered safe even for pregnant animals, we like to avoid any possible risk to unborn kids. We generally worm a doe just before she is bred and not again until just after her kids are born (provided that she is in good health and does not look wormy). Then we worm her again 3 to 4 weeks after kidding (about the time the kids will be due for their first worming). If it is desired or necessary to worm a doe during pregnancy, it is best to wait until she is at least 3 to 4 months into her gestation.

A good, general-purpose wormer is Zimecterin or Eqvalan worming paste; its active ingredient is ivermectin, an effective, broad-spectrum worming agent. The paste comes in a disposable syringe with weights marked on it. The amount in one syringe is intended for a 1,250-pound horse. For a 50-pound miniature goat, we usually give about the amount marked at 150 pounds (i.e., about 3 times the horse dose, by weight). This wormer is very safe, so if you give a little too much, it won’t hurt the goat; and, in fact, it is much better to overdose than underdose. The easiest way to administer this wormer is to squirt the appropriate amount onto the back of the goat’s tongue. Zimecterin or Eqvalan is available from horse tack shops, many feed dealers, large-animal veterinarians, and veterinary supply catalogs. A prescription is not needed.

A liquid form of ivermectin, marketed under the name Ivomec, can also be used for worming. It is administered by subcutaneous injection. Injectable liquid Ivomec is effective not only against stomach worms but also against lice and mange mites. Many goatkeepers worm with Ivomec during the late winter and early spring as a preventative against external parasites. A dose of about 0.1 cc per 10 pounds is customary, but you should follow the labeled instructions.

Ivermectin, in whatever form, is not as effective as certain other wormers against tapeworms or lungworms. Unlike stomach worms, lungworms and tapeworms are not normally present. Goats can become infected with lungworms if they have access to wet pasture, as the common variety of this worm is transmitted via slugs and snails. The usual clinical sign of lungworm is a sporadic dry cough. Wormers that are effective against lungworm include fenbendazole (available as Panacur horse wormer paste) and mebendazole (available as Telmin horse wormer paste). These wormers are administered in the same way as ivermectin paste. Clinical signs of tapeworms are thinness of the animal and white, rice-sized fragments in the stool. Both fenbendazole (Panacur) and mebendazole (Telmin) are commonly used for tapeworm infestations.

Coccydia

Coccydia are another type of internal parasite. These organisms multiply and are transmitted in manure. A heavy coccydia infestation is a common cause of debilitating diarrhea in goat kids; if left untreated, it can be fatal. Sulfa-type antibiotics such as Albon® are used both to prevent and to treat excessive coccydia infestations. Keeping the goats’ environment as clean as possible and feeding in containers above the ground will help avoid the problem. Even under the best conditions, however, young kids can develop excessive coccydia infestations, because they have not yet developed the resistance that adults have. Kids are especially susceptible at weaning, when they are taken to a new environment, and at other times of stress.

Here again, a negative fecal sample does not always mean that a kid is relatively free of coccydia. It’s best to watch for the signs, which are essentially the same as the signs of worminess.

External parasites

External parasites include lice and mites. These nasty creatures can be a problem occasionally, even if the goats’ shelter is clean and dry. Lice infestations occur most commonly in the winter months, when there is less sunlight, the outside environment is often damp, and the goats will be indoors more often due to inclement weather. The clinical signs of external parasites are a rough coat, patchy hair loss, and/or excessive scratching and rubbing by the affected goat. Also, lice and their immature forms (nits) can be seen with the naked eye. Mites cannot be seen with the naked eye and usually can be definitively diagnosed only by microscopic examination of a skin scraping. Both lice and mites are readily treated by injectable Ivomec. If the weather permits, bathing the goat will be helpful in removing the parasites and in relieving her "itchiness." During the warm months, clipping the goat’s coat will help eliminate lice, as they will be more exposed to sunlight.

Worms, coccydia, and external parasites are not trivial problems. They are very harmful to goats. Be sure to maintain a good parasite control program.

Hoof Trimming

Hooves should be checked frequently to see if they require trimming. It may be necessary to trim as frequently as every two weeks or as infrequently as every couple of months, depending on the time of year and the terrain. Unless goats have access to gravel and rocks (which most goats don’t), the walls, heels, and toes of their hooves will grow excessively long. If unattended, hooves will become misshapen and the goat lame. Regular hoof trimming is especially important in kids, whose feet and legs may develop abnormally if their hooves are not well cared for.

Hoof trimming is not at all difficult. As you trim, take off only small slivers at a time to avoid cutting too deeply and causing the goat’s foot to bleed. Stop trimming if you see pink just below the surface, as this means that you are nearing blood vessels. In a correctly trimmed hoof, the bottom of the foot is parallel to the hairline. Novices will find it helpful to watch an experienced goatkeeper trim hooves and see exactly how it is done.

It is especially important to check your goats’ hooves during periods of wet weather, particularly if they have access to muddy ground. "Hoof rot," "hoof scald," or "hoof separation" can develop under such conditions, and frequent hoof care will help prevent them. There is a contagious form of hoot rot that is transmittable from one animal to another. This type of hoof rot must be treated with dilute bleach or with one of a variety of commercial disinfectant preparations in order to both treat the individual goat and prevent the organism from being transmitted to other animals. "Hoof separation" refers to a small opening or crack between the hoof wall and the sole of the foot. Minor hoof separations can be dealt with by more-frequent-than-usual hoof trimming; a goat’s hoof grows continuously and a separation will eventually disappear with judicious trimming.

Routine Veterinary Care

CDT Vaccination and BoSe Supplementation

Mature goats should be vaccinated at least annually for tetanus and enterotoxemia (Clostridium C&D). A combined vaccine ("CDT") is available, making only one injection necessary. It may also be advisable to give an injection of selenium at least annually. Selenium, which is commercially available under the trade name "BoSe," is a mineral that is important for proper muscle conditioning and which is not found in adequate quantity in the pasture and hay grown in certain areas of the country, especially the Northeast and the Pacific Northwest. Before beginning a selenium supplementation program, check with your veterinarian and (probably more importantly) other goatkeepers in your area. Excess selenium can be toxic, so you should not supplement unless you’re sure it’s necessary.

Does to be bred should be vaccinated with CDT shortly before breeding or 100 to 120 days into pregnancy. There is some limited evidence that selenium given during pregnancy may cause abortions, so some breeders do not give selenium during pregnancy. We have resumed giving selenium supplementation to our does in late pregnancy, as we have concluded that the risks of selenium-deficiency problems in kids (predominantly white-muscle disease) or kidding problems in does outweigh the slight (if any) risk of abortion.

Young kids should be vaccinated with CDT at 3 to 5 weeks of age and again approximately a month later; thereafter, they can go onto an annual vaccination schedule. In areas where supplementation is advisable, selenium should be given on the same schedule. Miniature goats, including kids, require the same dose of vaccine (2 cc of the most commonly used brand) as do standard-sized goats. For miniature goat kids, ½ cc of BoSe should be given as the first dose, 1 cc as the second dose. Mature animals should receive 1 cc. Both CDT and BoSe can be administered subcutaneously.

It should be noted that the CDT vaccine often causes a tissue reaction, in the form of a small nodule or lump, at the injection site. It is useful to routinely give the vaccine at the same general site in all of your goats (we give it in the vicinity of the right shoulder), so that if a tissue reaction does occur, it can be readily identified as such (rather than, say, a contagious abscess).

The CDT vaccine is available, without prescription, from veterinary supply catalogs that offer products for livestock. Purchasing BoSe requires a prescription.

Rabies

Most state veterinarians in areas where rabies is prevalent in wildlife recommend that all livestock be vaccinated for rabies. There is no FDA-approved rabies vaccine for goats, but there is one for sheep and this product is used "off-label" for goats. Goats must be at least 3 months of age to be vaccinated against rabies. Although some goatkeepers give rabies vaccinations themselves, only a veterinarian can provide a rabies certificate that will be valid in the event of a rabies exposure.

Find a Good Goat Vet!

Common illnesses and diseases of goats are discussed in "Miniature Goats: Signs of Health and Illness." It should be noted here, though, that it is very important to locate and establish a relationship with a veterinarian with expertise in the treatment of goats. Veterinarians who have primarily small-animal (dog and cat) practices usually know virtually nothing about goats and usually will not, in any case, see them. Horse veterinarians sometimes have expertise in the treatment of livestock, but not always. The best way to locate a good goat veterinarian is to consult other goatkeepers in the area.

Companionship

Goats are very sociable creatures; they are by nature herd animals. While some goats will bond with horses or other animals of a different species, most are happiest and most contented if they have another goat as a companion (or, in a pinch, a sheep). A goat living by him/herself is likely to cry a lot, eat poorly, and, due to general stress, be more susceptible to illness. No matter how much time the owner spends with the goat, he/she cannot be a true companion to the goat – unless he/she plans on living in the barn!

For this reason, most reputable goat breeders are very reluctant to sell a single goat (unless, of course, the prospective buyer already owns one or more goats). The objective is not to sell more goats, but to ensure that every goat sold is happy and well cared for. Reputable goat breeders take very seriously their responsibility to their animals and try to find them the best homes possible. Also, of course, they want their "customers" to take pleasure in healthy, affectionate, contented animals.